What Are "Normal" Skin Concerns in Your 40s? Derms Weigh In on Fine Lines and Texture Changes

It's no secret that as we age, so does our skin. It's also not a secret that the decade of your 40s is known for bringing texture changes, including dull, uneven skin texture that is more prone to wrinkles and fine lines. But with all of the filtered and edited images saturating social media, not to mention injectables, fillers, and surgical procedures available in IRL, what does a natural, aging 40-year-old face even look like?

To find out what to expect skin-wise when hitting the 40s milestone, we tapped dermatologists Rachel Nazarian, MD, Jennifer Hermann, MD, and Serena Mraz, MD, who shared everything from establishing a preventative skincare routine to treatments to try for healthy, glowing skin. 

Keep reading for common skincare concerns in your 40s and how to address them.

How Does Skin Change in Your 40s?

"Our skin hits its peak with collagen production between the ages of 25 to 34 years," Mraz tells us. By the time most people reach their 40s, collagen production cannot keep up with collagen breakdown, resulting in collagen depletion, she explains. "This net breakdown of collagen is accompanied by fragmentation of elastin which, under ideal conditions, gives the skin its bounce back. Overtaxed melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells, start to show irregular activity at this time." Meaning: “Signs of skin aging that first show in someone’s 30s, like fine lines around the eyes, increased pigmentation, poorer texture, and deeper smile lines all become more pronounced in the 40s,” says Herrmann.

"Once you enter your 40s, your estrogen levels are in decline, making you more prone to classic hormonal acne," adds Nazarian. "Many people notice a distribution of pimples closer to the jawline and neck. Although it can be incredibly frustrating, prescription treatments work great and can help control flares."

What Types of Wrinkles Can You Expect?

Since everyone is different, where and when you notice wrinkles will vary. However, most people in their 40s will typically begin noticing deeper-set wrinkles in areas of high facial movement or sun exposure, with factors such as genetics, lifestyle, and skin tone affecting their development.

"Dynamic wrinkles or lines of expression are generally the first sign that the skin is losing its spring or bounce back ability," Mraz tells us. "These are commonly seen earliest as crow’s feet around the eyes, glabellar lines—AKA 'the elevens' between the brows—forehead lines, and upper lip lines." 'Smoker’s lines,' those fine lines over the upper lip, can appear even in those who have never smoked, add Mraz.

You can also expect wrinkles on your neck. "Some women, especially side sleepers, may start to see vertical lines forming in the decolletage, as well," says Mraz.

Other Signs of Aging That May Start In Your 40s

Uneven Skin Tone

"Uneven discoloration with white spots—called guttate hypomelanosis—and brown spots and patches may start to show up as a result of sun damage from the first decades," says Mraz. "Redness or ruddiness from dilated blood vessels on the surface of the mid-face, neck, and decolletage are commonly seen in conjunction with sun freckles or dark spots in people with lighter skin," she adds. "Pigmentation can result from both sun and hormonal influences," explains Hermann.

Skin Dryness and Dullness

"Skin dryness also affects this decade more than the 20s and 30s due to shifts in estrogen, and having a good moisturizer is very important," Nazarian tells us. “Those with acne-prone skin will still need an oil-free option, while those that are feeling the effects of decreased estrogen and have drier skin will need something heavier," advises Herrmann. “Simple products that are fragrance-free and formulated for sensitive skin tend to be my go-to's, like Cetaphil and CeraVe. Hyaluronic acid is another skin hydrator that binds water and keeps skin looking dewy and young," she adds.

Skincare Tips for Your 40s

"Ideally, we should start skincare for our 40s long before reaching our 40s," says Mraz. "But I always recommend starting now, regardless of your age, if you haven’t started already."

Practice Healthy Lifestyle Habits

"Our skin is our most visible organ, and in general, lifestyle habits that make us healthy keep our skin in better health," says Mraz. She recommends following a whole food, minimally processed, plant-forward diet with minimal to no alcohol consumption, exercising regularly without excess, getting adequate sleep, and avoiding smoking.

"Avoidance of highly processed foods and foods with high levels of advanced glycation end products such as bacon and charred meat are not only best for our heart but also may have a significant impact on helping to protect against wrinkles," adds Mraz. 

Use Sun Protection

Get into the habit of always applying sunscreen to exposed skin in the morning—regardless of the weather, says Mraz. This way, you'll be able to enjoy the sun and its benefits while staying protected. "Viewing morning sunlight during a walk outside is a great way to help regulate our cortisol cycles. When the sun is coming up or going down over the horizon, ultraviolet damage to the skin is minimal," Mraz tells us. However, time spent outside between sunrise and sunset is important, too, she adds. "After all, sitting inside in front of a computer all day is 'the new smoking'!" Just make sure to use protective clothing, sunglasses, and a good sunscreen. 

Mraz recommends Seaweed Bath Co. Invisible Mineral SPF 50, while Nazarian likes Revision Skincare® Intellishade TruPhysical. “Using one that is broad-spectrum and contains an SPF of at least 30 is key every day,” emphasizes Hermann, who's a fan of EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46. "Make sure not to forget your neck, chest, and the backs of your hands," she says.

Apply Beneficial Skincare Ingredients

According to Nazarian, “The best topical ingredients for this age aim to repair DNA damage, increase collagen production, fade unwanted pigmentation, and thicken skin." See a full breakdown below.

• DNA Repair Enzymes: Opt for products with DNA repair enzymes, which "improve skin's health and help decrease the chance of early pre-cancerous spots from emerging,” Herrmann says.
• Retinoid or Retinol: “These help increase collagen synthesis, which improves skin elasticity and decreases fine lines,” says Herrmann. "My recommendation is to have most people start a retinol cream nightly to help stimulate collagen production—if they haven't already," adds Nazarian. "For those with more sensitive skin, I often recommend a retinoid twice weekly and a growth factor for the remaining evenings," says Herrmann.
• Epidermal Growth Factor: Products with epidermal growth factors help thicken skin and boost collagen production. “[These] formulations are light and less irritating to skin than many retinoids," explains Herrmann.
• Oral Acne Treatments: The struggle of adult acne is real, and it can continue into your 40s. “Topicals that may have been helpful in your teens and 20s often fail in this decade, so dermatologist-prescribed oral medications that can decrease testosterone are often more helpful," Herrmann says.
• High-Quality Vitamin C: “Stabilized versions of vitamin C, like that in SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, can help fade dark spots,” Herrmann says. A few other ingredients to incorporate to fade dark spots are black licorice, bearberry, arbutin, niacinamide, and hydroquinone. "Depending on your skin type, different combinations of these ingredients may be more or less appropriate for your skin."

Adopt a Customized Skincare Routine

"The primary focus in this decade, though, is anti-aging and repair," says Nazarian. Her perfect A.M. skincare regimen begins with a gentle hydrating cleanser, followed by an antioxidant serum (to neutralize free-radical damage), then a moisturizer or wrinkle cream with hyaluronic acid and ceramides (to pull in moisture and strengthen the skin barrier), and finally a tinted SPF (which blocks visible light).

According to Nazarian, the ideal PM skincare regimen would start with a gentle hydrating cleanser, then a deeply hydrating moisturizer and a retinoid/peptide/AHA. "A good bedtime skincare routine, along with health habits, goes a long way in keeping wrinkles, dullness, and discoloration from creeping up," says Mraz.

Try an In-Office Treatment

Those in their 40s shouldn’t rule out in-office treatments to support their skincare routines since they can complement what’s done at home. “Crow’s feet and forehead lines can be softened with Botox, and pigmentation, dullness, and texture problems can be removed with lasers,” says Hermann. “Plus, the judicious use of fillers like Restylane can help restore tissue loss and smooth folds that have emerged with aging, and radio-frequency heat devices can help tighten skin.”

The Final Takeaway

When it comes to addressing wrinkles and other skincare concerns in your 40s, you've got options. “Doing small but consistent treatments in this decade set you up for much more natural-looking skin and minimize the need for more invasive, ‘obvious’ procedures in the 50s and 60s,” Herrmann says. Still, given a variety of factors and the natural aging process, it might not be possible to prevent wrinkles—and that's okay. Adopting healthy habits and taking care of your skin are the right steps to take to look and feel your best.