Is Talc Bad for Skin? Experts Weigh In

Due to its multipurpose nature, talc has been used in beauty products for decades. In the past, the soft mineral ingredient was used to achieve powdery makeup looks—a signature style of vintage beauty. Today, it's still widely used, but in some other ways, too, such as to prevent sweat and chafing. Talc continues to be formulated in various makeup products—from powder to blush and eyeshadow.

Although this ingredient has become a cornerstone of beauty, it's not without some scrutiny. In recent years, talc has come under fire as a carcinogen and is often believed to provoke irritation of the lungs when inhaled. To set the record straight on whether using talc in cosmetics is a cause for concern, we tapped a cosmetic chemist and dermatologist. Keep reading for the full breakdown of products containing talc, as well as potential alternatives.

Understanding Makeup and Ingredient Safety

Before taking a closer look at talc in cosmetics, Victor Casale, the co-founder of Cover FX and a cosmetic chemist, says there are a few essential things to know concerning makeup and safety. He points to common misconceptions surrounding the idea of natural products. "When you use the word 'natural,' it's all relative and subjective," he says. "I like to say that we should be talking about the degrees of naturalness."

He notes that natural products can be harmful while synthetic ingredients can be effective and even safer in some cases. "People care about the naturalness of their makeup, but most of the medications they take are synthetic," he says. Instead of prioritizing natural ingredients, Casale recommends considering how each ingredient affects the body in order to rank its safety. "At Cover FX, what I do is look at the ingredients—I don't look at the degrees of naturalness," he says. "I look for safety, toxicity, odor, effectiveness, stability, and sustainability of the sources." He underscores that the goal is to create quality products that are safe to use. "It's a balance of using science, nature, and what technology is available."

What Is Talc?

Talc is a natural mineral used in a wide variety of everyday products—from paint and textiles to drugs and cosmetics. It is a naturally occurring mineral that is extracted from open-pit mines across the world. "In cosmetics, specifically, we look for suppliers that mine it in its purest form," says Casale. "It's milled down very easily and used as an expender in our repertoire." In makeup products, it is used as a dilutant often paired with pigment. "If you take some of that pigment and put it on your hand, it's intense. You have to dilute it. You can't sell it that concentrated. Talc is the dilutant," says Casale.

Is Talc Safe to Use?

Talc naturally contains asbestos, a substance known to cause cancer. In 1976, the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrances Association recommended cosmetics products should be free of asbestos. Talc-containing asbestos is especially carcinogenic when inhaled. However, it remains unclear if talc not containing asbestos remains a danger. The concern with cosmetic talc in makeup and hygiene products is when it is inhaled, as it might cause respiratory problems and lung disease,” says dermatologist, Purvisha Patel, MD. “It can also irritate the eyes.”

The International Agency for Research on Cancer, which is part of the WHO, classifies talc as “probably carcinogenic to humans.” This classification is based on “limited” evidence for cancer in humans, “sufficient” evidence for cancer in lab animals, and “strong” evidence that it has properties of a carcinogen.

How Is Talc Used?

Talc has several uses. Here are some of the most common ones below.

• Absorbs oil and reduces shine. "Talc is very water absorbent and has been used for centuries to help the skin in areas of moisture and to help prevent skin breakdown and inflammation," says Dr. Patel. The powder is also well known for absorbing oil and reducing shine. It is often used to control sweat, oily hair or shiny skin.
• In makeup, it gives a dry powder look. Casale has been using talc since he started in the industry. "Thirty years ago, that's what everybody used," he says. When he was formulating MAC Studio Fix Powder Foundation, still one of its best sellers, Casale used talc. "The problem with talc, as I learn more and more and have more experience with it, is that if you put talc on your hand by itself and rub it in, it never really disappears. You have a white, chalky stain on your hand." When Casale first started in the cosmetics industry, "people liked that dry powder look," he recalls. "Today it's natural glow—they want it to look natural, they don't want it to look covered up. You want your beauty to come through your makeup."

Drawbacks and Potential Side Effects of Talc

Apart from concerns that it may be carcinogenic, talc also presents some side effects.

• It can lead to irritation. Dr. Patel says most skin types can tolerate talc. However, those with sensitive skin can experience irritation when it is applied to specific areas of the face. "Those that may have irritation when it is used in the folds of skin are people who tend to have sensitive skin reactions and hive easily," she says. "The rubbing of the particles may cause increased irritation to them."
• It can be chalky. When Casale reformulated all products part of the Cover FX line years ago, he pushed to use an alternative to talc. "I put my foot down and said we're not using talc. It's too chalky," he said. Instead, Casale opted for ultra-fine mica. "Now, when I'm formulating, I can dilute the color, but it won't create a chalky finish on your skin. My decision [to ditch talc] wasn't made for safety concerns—that came later."

What to Use Instead of Talc?

In recent years, brands have been using alternatives to talc. Here are some of the most common ones.

• Mica. It is naturally occurring mineral that, when ground, produces mica powder. The powder gives off a pearly, sparkly sheen, which is why it's a popular ingredient in many highlighters and eyeshadows. The mineral is similar to talc and can be used to create the frost in your lipstick or eye shadow. When you break down mica, it breaks down flat—like a mirror—so, depending on the particle size, you can go from club glitter to frosty to illuminating to just glowy. "When you rub mica into your skin pure, it disappears," says Casale.
• Cornstarch. This plant-based ingredient is often used as an alternative to talc because it presents similar properties. In some cases, it can be an alternative to dry shampoo because it helps control sebum, minimizes frizz and extends time between washes. It also has mattifying properties and can help control sweat and set makeup such as lipstick and nail polish.
• Silica. A compound of silicone and oxygen, silica is used in cosmetic products as an absorbent and thickening agent. It is known to help control oil in beauty products. It was found to be a more effective and similar alternative to talc than cornstarch.

The Final Takeaway

Talc is found in many products, from crayons to cosmetics. In beauty, this ingredient has often been used to help absorb excess oil on the skin. However, in recent years, brands have started using alternatives to talc because of an unwanted chalky finish and potential irritation. The safety of talc has also been subject to concern, with some initial research noting the mineral can be contaminated with asbestos, a known carcinogen. While more research is needed on the side effects of talc in cosmetics, there are alternatives available on the market.