Do Those Viral Korean Collagen Masks From #BeautyTok Actually Work?

Every day, it seems like the powers that be bring us a new viral beauty moment on TikTok. Whether it's beloved blushes or wellness theories (cortisol face, anyone?), our FYPs can feel like a never-ending rabbit hole of non-experts doling out advice and product recommendations. It's no surprise we've grown skeptical—in fact, we'd argue that a healthy dose of skepticism is vital to existing in today's #BeautyTok.

So when yet another trend—Korean overnight collagen face masks—made its way to our feeds, we knew better than to simply take the many rave reviews at face value. The promise? Plumper, firmer skin overnight, with spurred collagen production and boosted elasticity. Impressive claims, to be sure. But is there any truth to them? We went to board-certified dermatologists Michele Farber, MD, and Nathan Newman, MD, to find out. Read on for their expert opinions.

What Is Collagen?

The most abundant protein in the human body, collagen provides structure to the skin, hair, nails, and connective tissues like ligaments and tendons. Per Newman, it makes up around 75% of the skin, acting as a scaffolding of sorts and helping maintain its firmness, resilience, and tone. Over time, our natural collagen decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin.

According to Farber, evidence is still emerging on the efficacy of ingested and topical collagen, though it very well may be a way to help support and replenish the skin's collagen structure.

What Are Korean Overnight Collagen Masks?

These masks are designed to be left on overnight while you sleep (hence the "overnight" in the name) to help deeply hydrate the skin and—hopefully—promote collagen absorption. The masks are typically steeped in a highly concentrated hydrating ampoule that sinks into the skin as it's worn. The ampoule generally consists of hyaluronic acid and hydrolyzed collagen, which is simply collagen broken down into smaller fragments and thus has a lower molecular weight.

While there isn't adequate evidence about the skin's absorption of topical collagen, Farber says hydrolyzed collagen is certainly more likely to be absorbed into the skin than collagen at a larger molecular weight.

Benefits

While the effects of the collagen aren't fully conclusive, there are a few definite benefits to these Korean overnight collagen masks. They include:

• Improved hydration: According to Newman, these masks typically contain hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid that help draw and retain water in the skin.
• Strengthened skin barrier: Probiotics and hyaluronic acid in the mask work to repair the skin barrier.
• Moisturized and plumped skin: Newman says that hyaluronic acid also works to moisturize the skin, which in turn helps keep it plump and taut.
• Temporary reduction in fine lines and wrinkles: Post-mask, you may see a temporary decrease in fine lines and wrinkles thanks to the improved hydration in the skin, Farber explains.

While collagen absorption isn't definite, regular use of Korean overnight collagen masks certainly comes with its positives—namely, improved hydration and the bevy of cascading effects that come with that. It's also worth noting that Farber says the treatment is generally safe and a reasonable addition to an anti-aging routine. She suggests using the masks a few times weekly.

Potential Side Effects + Considerations

Every rose has its thorn—or at least the potential of a thorn. And in this case, while most collagen masks are considered generally safe, there are a few possible thorns to consider.

First and foremost (and most obviously), wearing a sheet mask overnight might not be the most pleasant experience. The masks can technically be used over a shorter period of around three to four hours, though the instructions do suggest overnight wear. And while they're supposed to sink into the skin and turn translucent, that doesn't necessarily mean they'll feel any more comfortable.

As is the case with most skincare, there's always the risk of irritation, which is all the more likely with the extended period of skin-to-mask contact. Those with sensitive skin or allergies may react to preservatives, fragrances, or other inactive ingredients like botanicals. There's also a risk of clogged pores and potential breakouts for those with acne-prone skin.

And while not technically a side effect, there is the very real possibility that these masks are ineffective in terms of the skin actually absorbing the topical collagen. At this point, we simply don't have the research to definitively conclude whether or not they work.

Results and Final Takeaway

Unless you have incredibly sensitive or acne-prone skin, it's unlikely that Korean overnight collagen masks will hurt or compromise the skin in any way. At the very least, they will increase hydration and plump the skin—a benefit we can all get behind.

That being said, don't expect any major miracles here. Both experts agree that while these masks can be a nice addition to an anti-aging regimen, they certainly shouldn't be the main focus. Farber suggests including other skincare products like sunscreen, vitamin C serum, and retinoids into your routine to keep your skin looking youthful. Meanwhile, Newman recommends maximizing the masks' benefits by using them to seal in regenerative skincare products and thicker moisturizers.

All things considered, these masks are likely to improve skin's hydration and appearance, but more in a nice-to-have way than a need-to-have way.