Courtesy / Byrdie
In the realm of sun care, the United States has notoriously lagged behind global standards, with European and Asian markets long celebrated for their cosmetically elegant, sophisticated formulations. In fact, nearly three decades have passed since the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) last approved an innovative UV filter.
But the U.S. is finally making progress, with the FDA approving bemotrizinol (BEMT) in June. Although international markets across Europe, Asia, and Australia have relied on this advanced UV filter in cosmetics since 2000, American skincare brands are now eager to integrate it into their offerings. One such brand is Neutrogena.
This month, the skincare pioneer is launching two new sunscreens containing BEMT: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Daily Face Sunscreen SPF 70 and Neutrogena Clear Face Sunscreen SPF 60. The former is designed to feel 50% lighter than leading sunscreens, while the latter is formulated specifically for acne-prone skin. Ahead, learn more about the newest Neutrogena innovations and why BEMT is such a game-changer for the industry.
What Is BEMT?
Before BEMT’s approval, sunscreens on the market relied on the same few filters. “Commonly used filters currently in sunscreens are either mineral filters, including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, or chemical filters such as avobenzone, octocrylene, octisalate, homosalate, and octinoxate,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Marisa Garshick explains. “Some may be purely mineral, some purely chemical, and some a combination of the two to ensure broad-spectrum coverage for both UVA and UVB.”
Dr. Garshick points out that BEMT offers key performance benefits, starting with enhanced photostability alongside broad-spectrum defense against both UVA and UVB rays. “Additionally, because it is a large molecule, there is little systemic absorption into the skin,” she notes. “Bemotrizonol helps to address the gap of having filters for UVA coverage that are both effective and photostable and can be used to deliver safe, effective, but also cosmetically elegant sunscreen formulations.”
Colin Pinto, vice president of skin health R&D at Neutrogena, highlights that sunscreens formulated with BEMT also offer a noticeably improved sensory experience. “Formulas incorporating BEMT can also feel lighter and smoother on skin, be more sheer and blend more easily, and help reduce white cast,” he says. “These sunscreens can also be better tolerated, including for sensitive or acne-prone skin.”
Neutrogena
What Is Cloud-Tech?
Powered by trademarked Cloud-Tech technology, Neutrogena’s latest sunscreen range combines BEMT with the brand’s existing sun care science. “Cloud-Tech is backed by 40+ years of global BEMT formulation expertise, rigorously validated and optimized at scale for consistent quality and performance,” Pinto explains. “It provides the engine for the best that sunscreen has to offer on both protection and aesthetics. The technology is built upon our recently launched Helioplex360, which contains additional antioxidants to provide protection in the long-range UVA and high-energy visible light spectrums, wavelengths known to contribute to hyperpigmentation. The addition of BEMT to this technology now offers not only the enhanced UVA protection that was unobtainable with previously approved US filters, but also an elegant and weightless formulation.”
Beyond sun protection, Cloud-Tech also encompasses skin-nourishing ingredients. “Importantly, Cloud-Tech intentionally pairs this advanced sunscreen technology with clinically proven skincare ingredients including niacinamide, vitamin E, feverfew, and Micro-Peptide Technology, to deliver both strong UV protection and skincare benefits in a single formula,” Pinto says.
Neutrogena
The Future of Sunscreen
The arrival of BEMT in the U.S. represents an exciting milestone for consumers and formulators like Pinto alike. For him, he’s most looking forward to the flexibility BEMT provides during development. “Prior to BEMT, to achieve high SPF, it usually meant maximizing the concentration of available filters, which led to heavy and greasy formulations,” he says. “Having BEMT and its properties allows us to reduce the total filter concentration, which means we’re able to create emulsions with ingredients that are more elegant and aesthetically pleasing for consumers, much like the K-Beauty sunscreens that consumers are constantly seeking.”
Beyond opening up new possibilities for sunscreen formulation, experts are hopeful BEMT’s arrival signals broader progress for sun protection innovation in the U.S. “While this on its own is very exciting to have a new option, the hope is that this approval allows for continued progress toward bringing additional innovative sunscreen filters to the US, giving consumers access to the same advanced sun protection technologies that are available in other parts of the world,” Dr. Garshick adds.
And while BEMT may help usher in a new era of sunscreen innovation, Dr. Garshick and Pinto hope the excitement surrounding it ultimately encourages more people to make sun protection a daily habit. “The biggest takeaway is that this approval expands our sunscreen toolbox,” Dr. Garshick says. “More options can ultimately help improve sunscreen use and adherence, which is critical because protecting the skin from UV exposure remains one of the most effective ways to reduce the risk of skin cancer, premature skin aging, and sun damage.”