Why Is Retinol Having a Villain Arc?

Hailey Baldwin with a skincare mask applied surrounded by skincare product images — Courtesy / Byrdie

Once upon a time, skincare TikTok lived in harmony. In the early pandemic era, we collectively exiled fragranced serums and apricot scrubs from our routines, dutifully following the gospel of Skincare by Hyram. We were, for a brief moment, one unified front—hydrated, fragrance-free, and slathered in ceramides.

But the peace didn’t last. These days, skincare TikTok can’t seem to agree on retinol. The once-revered, clinically backed gold standard has driven a wedge between estheticians, dermatologists, and, naturally, a large crop of “non-toxic beauty” creators, who warn of the “retinol uglies” and the alleged toxicity of the ingredient. “If you use retinol regularly, your face will get a very thin, paper look to it,” one creator claims.

So how did retinol go from the industry’s golden child to public enemy #1 on your FYP? And more importantly—do any of these claims actually hold up? Consider this a State of the Union on retinol.

How Did We Get Here?

Retinol has always had its fair share of controversy, but the conversation really began shifting in 2024, when the EU announced new restrictions on the use of retinoids. Not a ban—despite what TikTok might tell you—but a cap limiting concentrations to 0.3% in face products and 0.05% in body care. Naturally, one side of TikTok took that and ran with it, warping it into claims that retinol causes cancer. “Time to go home and throw away my retinol,” one TikToker wrote. Dermatologists were quick to debunk it, but by then, the skepticism had already taken on a life of its own.

It certainly didn't help that the controversy crossed over with a broader emphasis on repair. By 2024, barrier repair had become one of the skincare industry's biggest talking points, with brands pushing us ceramide-heavy serums, milky toners, and recovery creams designed to undo the damage of all the actives, all at once. Which we love! But because fear travels faster than nuance on social media, the conversation quickly shifted from barrier support to retinol horror stories: peeling, burning, breakouts, barrier damage, and the dreaded “retinol uglies.”

Abstract pattern with wavy texture and reflective surfaces appearing as closeup of material or artwork — DTS

“Patients are becoming more focused on barrier health and a less aggressive, more intentional approach to skincare,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Shereen Teymour. “At the same time, ‘clean beauty’ messaging has made people more wary of ingredients that are perceived as harsh, even when that perception isn’t grounded in evidence.”

In one TikTok, esthetician and Sofie Pavitt Face founder Sofie Pavitt likens using retinol on already inflamed, acne-heavy skin to “throwing gas on a barbecue”—a fair, targeted warning that many viewers adopted as a universal rule. What was meant for compromised, sensitized skin became, in the hands of the TikTok algorithm, a broader indictment of retinol itself. Retinol’s villain arc, then, feels less like a surprise and more like an inevitable byproduct of social media’s tendency to strip nuance and turn specific advice into blanket truth.

So Are These Claims True?

Retinol is not a one-size-fits-all—that part is true. But the reality is much less dramatic than some make it out to be: Retinol can be incredibly effective for the right person, in the right formula, at the right frequency. “[Retinol is] not a trend, it is one of the most well-studied, effective ingredients we have in dermatology,” Dr. Teymour explains. “Where we’ve gone wrong culturally is treating retinol as a universal requirement rather than a targeted intervention. Not everyone needs to be on a retinoid at all times.”

Dr. David Kim, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Soho Dermatology, agrees: “Anyone younger than 21 doesn't need retinol unless they're struggling with acne. If you have really sensitive skin, no need for retinol. If you're family planning, pregnant, or breastfeeding, do NOT use retinol.”

As for the claim that retinol thins your skin: deeply, deeply untrue. “In reality, retinoids increase dermal collagen and, over time, can actually thicken the deeper layers of the skin,” says Dr. Teymour. “What people are experiencing is surface-level dryness or irritation early on, and that’s being misinterpreted and amplified online."

A droplet applicator on a textured surface — DTS

So no, retinol isn’t the villain it's being made out to be. But it’s also not a universal solution to all your unique and individual skin concerns. It's also more than likely to cause some irritation as your skin adjusts, and that may explain some of the backlash. For years, we were sold retinol as the gold standard—and for many people, it is. But “gold standard” doesn’t mean “mandatory,” and it certainly doesn’t mean every face needs the same formula at the same frequency. Which brings us to the rest of the vitamin A family: retinoids, retinal, retinyl palmitate, and the gentler alternatives people are turning to instead.

Which Vitamin A Should I Use?

The confusing thing about “retinol” is that people often use it as shorthand for an entire family of vitamin A derivatives. But the correct term for that "family" is actually "retinoids", and retinol is just one option in the group. “Not all retinoids are interchangeable, and not all ‘alternatives’ are equivalent,” says Dr. Teymour. In reality, there’s a spectrum. “Retinaldehyde (often referred to as retinal) sits one step closer to the active form, so it tends to be more efficient and, in many cases, better tolerated. Then you have prescription-strength retinoids, such as tretinoin, which are already in their active form and remain the gold standard in terms of efficacy.”

So the “best” vitamin A for your skin isn’t necessarily the strongest one—it’s the one your skin can tolerate consistently. “If you have sensitive skin, [it’s] best to use something gentler like retinyl palmitate,” says Dr. Kim. “Using something that is gentle more consistently is better than using something strong once a week.” Baby steps!

Charlotte Palermino, co-founder of Dieux and a licensed esthetician, also sees the value in different forms of retinol as a way to ease in. They can be “great to get acclimated and try to work your way up,” she says. But she notes one major caveat: “So much retinol on the market is unstable.” In other words, vitamin A isn’t just about choosing the strongest derivative; it’s about finding a formula that’s stable, tolerable, and actually realistic for your skin.

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